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KHARKIV, Ukraine — As we were about to pull out of our Kharkiv hotel, an eruption sounded so close that we all sprinted back inside the lobby. It seemed that our opportunity to drive out of the city had closed.
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But after a minute of calm Monday, we got back into the car and headed southwest. Russian troops on Sunday breached the city, the second-largest in Ukraine and 25 miles from the Russian border.
And then the Ukrainian military successfully repelled them. A second, more forceful Russian push seemed likely. Though we had been deeply invested in Kharkiv’s story, as we had been based in the city since before the start of Russia’s invasion, we decided there was safety in numbers and linked up with another group of journalists to drive together in two cars to Dnipro, about 140 miles to the southwest.
Google Maps said it would be about a three-hour drive. The Washington Post's Whitney Leaming describes what it was like to travel from Kharkiv to Dnipro on Feb.
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28 on roads now marked by checkpoints and armed men. (Video: Zoeann Murphy, Whitney Leaming/The Washington Post, Photo: Salwan Georges/The Washington Post)Ukrainians across the country have had to consider a similar choice: stay put and risk a Russian assault, or hit the road and face unpredictable and potentially even more unsafe conditions while driving.
We were fortunate to have the resources to make an exit — an option not available to all in Kharkiv. They had been bustling with rush-hour traffic just five days earlier. The driver yelled out his window that we were going too slow. Artillery strikes could still be heard in the distance. But we had grown used to that sound after four days of enduring shelling here. As we drove, we saw a line of more than 100 people outside a grocery store.
Sheltering in basements and underground metro platforms for four days had left people desperate to restock on supplies.
The booming thuds, then still seemingly far away, didn’t prompt them to abandon their positions in line. We knew we should expect armed checkpoints on our journey to Dnipro, and we encountered our first one at the edge of the city center.
Battle of Kharkiv 2022 - Wikipedia
Men dressed in military-style uniforms had set up barricades along the road and directed us to pull over. Everyone in our car was wearing a protective vest as a precaution. I was driving, so I tried to cover my vest with a scarf so as to not alarm the soldiers, who were already on edge at these checkpoints.
There were four people in our car, but he asked to see just one passport. At the next one, we were all asked to show our passports and also open the trunk.